Keith Bolling and Jennifer Burkland filming Burning Bright.
In the summer of 2017, I created a conceptual clothing line that would allow the user to have one basic piece of clothing, in this case it was a simple cotton sheath, that could be altered, by fastening different elements to it. This would allow one dress to function throughout the day and evening just by changing an overskirt or cape. After sewing the sheath, a piece of clothing that could be worn to school or work, I added discreet buttons to the waist and to the shoulders so that they could support overskirts. The video above shows how the clothing system could be worn during the day and then transform at night.
Further, I wanted to incorporate different methods of illumination into the clothing. The variety of lighting elements included applying glow-in-the- dark paint, black light paint, and integrated LED lights sewn into the fabric.
Another piece I created for this collection was a short, lined over-skirt that could button to the waist of the sheath. On the skirt front and back, I drew a birds’ eye view of a city in indelible black marker. In between the layers of fabric I sewed small, connected LEDs that glowed behind building and car windows.
The next piece was a whimsical party or evening wear look. It included a sheer, chiffon cape and tights that in daylight looked like a simple blue ensemble, but when the wearer enters a darkened room the viewer can see there are butterflies that have alighted on the cape and leggings.
The ‘petticoat’ version was a nod to dressing up as a southern belle at a costume party. The sheer, chiffon overskirts were stenciled with black light sensitive paint to appear like a layer of lace was added to each layer. The lace gloves, spats, and masks were immersed into the black light solution insuring a dramatic glow across a crowded room.
The final skirt was a high-low overskirt that was meticulously airbrushed with a graffiti image of winding snakes and jeweled necklaces. On top of the airbrushing glowering snake eyes were stenciled so that the wearer, looking colorful and playful in an illuminate room, suddenly looked menacing in a dark room.
Birds’ eye view, city scape image is illuminated with integrated LED lights.
Airbrushed hi-low skirt attaches at waist to base sheath. Over the snake graffiti print, snake eyes are printed with glow-in-the-dark paint, which glower menacingly.
I love its drape, its versatility, its colors and textures. Clothing, therefore fabric, is a universal need. Its basic use is to keep us warm and protected from the environment. It also feeds our need for modesty. Beyond meeting Maslow’s hierarchy of needs, clothing defines who we are and ultimately, what we belief and stand for.
Producing clothes is a huge $2.5 trillion global industry and like any huge industry this proves both beneficial and detrimental. Here are some of the industry’s statistics:
Americans spent $380 billion on clothing and footwear in 2017.
It is estimated that between 80 to 100 billion pieces of clothing are purchased every year in the global market but 20% of that number does not sell and has to be disposed.
The clothing industry is second only to oil as the largest polluter in the world.
Clothing production consumes 25% of all the chemicals made.
Clothing production is responsible for nearly 20% of water pollution.
Americans discard 80 pounds of clothing per year. Worldwide 2.1 billion pounds of clothing is thrown away every year.
Lest you think it is all doom and gloom, consider these stats and concepts:
The fashion industry in 2019 employed 1.8 million people in the US only.
Some companies are now treating water through a biological treatment process that both saves water during production and ensures that water leaving the the factory is free of chemicals and dyes.
Manufacturers are implementing programs that preserve and reuse old materials.
Efforts are being made by individuals and other small design concerns to find new and unique solutions to reusing clothing. The most simple one being: buy less and using clothing longer. For example
Looptworks is turning old leather wallets into motorcycle jackets.
Discarded wet suits are made into laptop sleeves.
Rent the Runway is renting evening wear for women.
Eileen Fisher has started her Renew Project to re-service used clothing.
In upcoming blogs I intend to discuss some of these solutions along with other technological and artistic developments in the textile industry. Stay tuned!
